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      首 页 《读者》航空版 关于《读者》 订购《读者》 早期文章 在线投稿 来稿选登 广告刊登
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      卫生纸与火车
      来源:《读者》2005年第4期    时间:2012/9/11    阅读:6488次

      作者:[韩国]柳时和著 陈香华译 

        已经是十月了,印度孟买(Bombay)的街头还是艳阳高照。为了消暑,我找到了水龙头想冲一把脸,印度因为天气酷热,在公共场所都有水龙头,供一般民众冲凉。

        当我将行李背包放下,弯着腰准备要冲水时,忽然有位印度男子走过来。不吭一声目中无人似地竟然翻起我的背包,把我吓了一跳,还没来得及问原因,他已经将背囊中的一卷卫生纸掏出拿走。在印度卫生纸是属于奢侈品,印度人习惯方便后在洗手间用水冲洗,一般洗手间内没有置放卫生纸的习惯,所以我在背包里随时带着手纸备用。

        众目睽睽之下,这样的举动,让人无法相信怎么会发生。刚开始以为是碰到神经病,但并不是,一气之下叫住了他,问为什么随便拿别人的东西?那男子停住脚步转过头来,神情自然地看着我说:

        “你问为什么拿走这东西吗?我只不过暂时保管一下罢了!”

        是亚热带沉闷的阳光吧,听了他说的话差点没昏倒,就像脑袋里一片空白,又吹进一股飒飒的凉风。印度人这样的逻辑思想,过去我曾在许多有关冥想的书中读过。

        “这卫生纸不是我的,即使是属于我,也不能说是我的,‘我的’这句话在这世界上不存在。”

        从一个印度男子口中听到那样的话,确实是让人昏眩。男子就这样拿走了卫生纸,留下愣住在喷出自来水水龙头前的我。

        我有些火大,但不得不自我安慰“对,都拿走吧,不是我的,我只不过是暂时保管的,都拿走吧!”

        话说如此,我还是赶紧把剩下的卫生纸藏好,免得再被人拿走,反正还在背包里的就是我的。

        几天以后,我打算从孟买出发到阿格拉市(Agra)。在送给售票员原子笔礼物以后,好不容易才买到需坐40小时二等车厢座位的车票。上车以后,我找了靠窗户边的位子,火车是两排相向的座位,在对面的座位坐了三个人,靠我这边也是三个人。除了我以外全是当地人,缠绕头巾的印度人,从头到脚目不转睛地注视着我,长相像老鹰的锡克人。夜行的火车,缓缓地??棵恳徽厩敖?。

        不久,上来了一个印度男子,看到座位还留有一点空隙,仿佛是自己的位子般,毫不客气便一屁股地挤靠在我们中间,座位由原来的3人变成4人。过了几站,又来了一个男子,也是不分青红皂白地挤着就坐下,原来3人的座位,现在是5个人挤成一堆。不过才出发两个小时,还有漫长的三十几个小时,我的背已无法靠着座背,被挤到缩着身子,脸必须靠着车窗趴着,不知不觉累得睡着了。朦胧之中,不由自主地身体往后靠时,忽然感觉碰到什么,睁开眼一看,吓了一跳,让人无法相信,因为在我背后与椅背之间狭小的空间,不知什么时候又挤进了一个印度男的。

        我跳了起来,无法忍受买了车票,竟然还要受到这种待遇。像这样坐三十几个小时的车,还不如干脆下车算了。于是从口袋里掏出车票,拿给了那几个毫无道理霸占位子的印度人看。

        “看看这张车票,这是我的位子,请你们起来到别的地方,这是我的位子,我要坐在这里。”

        其中一个年纪看来约50岁左右,长相平凡的男子,抬着头说:

        “是吗?你凭什么说这是你的位子?你不过是暂时坐着,不是也要下车的吗?难道你打算永远地坐在这里吗?”

        好像被人捶了一记,我的嘴巴被堵住般,什么话也回答不了。只不过是想按着车票入座,竟是这么困难的事。但再想想那男子说的话也没错,不过是暂时坐了就要下车,何苦大发雷霆,主张那位子是属于自己的呢?

        还有一次让我印象深刻的经验是在旧德里街上购物时发生的事。喜马拉雅山的居民约有半年因为积雪的关系对外交通中断,因此这段冬眠期间内,居民在家中制作各种刺绣品或银制手工艺,准备贩卖给观光客。我在旧德里街上,看到这些工艺品非常喜欢,想买几件带回去。一问价钱,一个印度青年瞧着我打量,看得出他也知道我不是初到印度的观光客。但奇怪的是开了1000卢比,相当韩币30000元(约25美元),在当地算是天价,也许他把我当作是有钱的日本观光客。我当然不愿作冤大头,于是回应他:

        “100卢比!”

        青年马上说:“150卢比!”即使是从1000卢比降到150卢比,脸上表情一点也没有变化。

        “70卢比!”

        我再往下杀价。

        “110卢比!”青年让步了一点,说已经降到成本价了。

        当然我不会退让,再度你来我往之后,最后以70卢比成交。原来1000卢比的价钱,竟然能用70卢比买到,我颇为沾沾自喜,相信在旅行之中,也能记上一笔。当他把东西包装好交给我时,我心情十分愉快地打算转身离去。

        就在那时,印度青年拍了我的肩膀,说:

        “Are you happy?”

        你快乐吗?是因为东西买得便宜快乐吗?如果是快乐到底有多快乐呢?而快乐能维持多久呢?他的意思应该是如此。

        一时我被问倒了,又是一阵昏暗,站在那里无法移动脚步。我转身问他为什么那样问我?

        他说:

        “你快乐的话我也快乐,但如果你不快乐,不管走到哪里问题都是在于你。”

        青年说完话以后,两眼看着我。在他的凝视中,我感受到自以为聪明,费尽心机买到便宜的东西,竟无法百分之百、有信心地说自己是非??炖值?。

        那以后不管我在印度历经了多少次施行,得到多少学习,但这三件事给我的启示,却永远无法忘怀。不管我到什么地方,做什么,他们的话,总是清晰地盘旋在耳际。

       


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