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      首 页 《读者》航空版 关于《读者》 订购《读者》 早期文章 在线投稿 来稿选登 广告刊登
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      有些鸟儿我们是看不见的
      来源:《读者》2006年第18期    时间:2012/12/12    阅读:6773次

      作者:李城


        
        我的一位邻居老人说,在没有留下过汽车轱辘印的地方,会游荡着一些快乐或者哀怨的幽灵?;苹枋狈?,如果你穿过一座僻静的村落,可能就在某个墙角处与他们撞个正着。你虽然睁大眼睛,却丝毫感觉不到他们的存在;倒是那些幽灵会主动闪开,说,看啊,这个瞎子,他踩着我啦。
        
        那是以为乐观豁达的老人,深受家人和邻居的尊敬。他说过这话不久,就告别了我们,毫无牵挂地进入另外的空间了。我记着他的话,心想会不会在某个黄昏或者夜晚,在楼道里突然就碰上他呢?可是我眼前除了一些坚硬而冰冷的物质,什么也没有。
        
        虽然我们深感物质世界是不容置疑的,但在真实的生活中,还是宁可相信一些虚幻事物的存在,并在内心为它们预留着共同分享这个世界的空间。
        
        一次,我在经过甘、川相邻地段一个名叫木道那的藏族寨子时,一群人正聚集在寨口一棵古杨树下,群情激愤地呵斥一个小男孩儿。那男孩委屈地抹着泪,手里拖着一把割草用的长柄镰刀,看上去很无辜的样子。我觉得那样对待一个孩子是不公平的,就问其中一位年长的男人,难道他做了什么不可饶恕的错事了吗?
        
        那人指指老树说,你看看吧,他做的好事!
        
        那棵老树上挂满了被雨水冲刷得泛白的经幡,还涂着不少酥油,酥油上粘着一团一团的羊毛。在一段空白树干上,有一道刀砍过的痕迹,新鲜的茬口上正在往外流水。原来,拿镰刀的小男孩路经此处,无意地向树上砍了一下,恰好被大人们看见了。他们认为树是不能想砍就砍的,何况那棵树不是一棵普通的树,而是护佑着地方平安的山神的寄魂树!
        
        人们说,那伤口不光是砍在树上,也是砍在山神的身上啊。
        
        我仰头看着那老态龙钟的杨树,有着枯瘦扭曲的枝干和稀疏的叶片,树冠上三两个鹊巢岌岌可危。除此以外,什么也看不出来??晌蚁嘈旁谡永锶嗣堑难壑?,一定会是另外一番景象,一些非同寻常的鸟儿栖息于树枝,它们无形的翅膀鼓动着透明的空气,正在给整个寨子带来幸福和吉祥。
        
        是的,在一些偏远村寨,那些看不见的,或者被我们认为是虚无的东西,仍被供奉在人们心灵的殿堂上,并被敬畏的嘴唇传诵得鲜活生动。从古到今,那样的鸟儿一直不知疲倦地飞翔于民间的天空下,因而在青藏高原,每一座山、每一条河都有相对应的神灵,即使那些丑陋的石头和树木,也有人一样的尊严和灵性。我们常?;峒秸庋氖率担杭词勾笃笃纳直还殖〉姆ツ竟び糜途馓炅斯馔?,而被村民们?;ぷ诺?#8220;神山”上,尤其是在寺庙的附近,成片成片的树木依然茁壮而茂密。
        
        小时候,我们总被警告不要在路上撒尿,冲了路神,眼皮上就会长出蚕豆大的“眼蛋”;也不能把脚丫踩到泉水里去,因为泉眼里住着泉神,冒犯了就会让我们的身上脸上长疮。我们表面上不以为然,但真那样做的时候,心里总会有所顾忌。两年前,我带儿子去老家的一条山沟里捉娃娃鱼,因为老师指派给他一个任务:捉一些娃娃鱼回家饲养,观察它们对环境的适应能力。在一条小溪源头的泉眼处,我们找到了一条很大的娃娃鱼,随即就被手脚麻利的儿子牢牢抓住了尾巴??墒悄翘跬尥抻憔徒甑搅巳鄣氖炖?,怎么也拉不出来。儿子虽然没有放手,但眼里带了莫名其妙的慌恐,回头看着我。也许他也觉得那不是一条普通的娃娃鱼,而是什么神秘之物的化身。
        
        有些东西我们是看不见的,但隐藏于我们的意识里,某种时间便能够真实地显示出来。正是这种对自然的神圣感和敬畏,约束着我们的行为,不断地使我们放弃自私而非分的念头。
        
        旅游业兴盛以来,香格里拉(安多藏区称为香巴拉)成为人们追寻的理想境界,希望那仅仅是佛经中提到的或小说里描绘的世外桃源,在现实中能够找到确切的对应。在青藏高原,据说那样的秘境已经被声称找到了,而且正在产生着旅游开发带来的经济效益。就是在国外,人们也试图将那乌托邦据为己有。印度国家旅游局曾经宣布,香格里拉位于喜马拉雅山下的巴尔蒂斯镇;尼泊尔人也不甘示弱,声称他们的边陲小镇木斯塘为香格里拉;俄罗斯人则在西伯利亚的冰天雪地里,辗转寻找香格里拉的蛛丝马迹??墒导噬?,香巴拉作为佛教理想中极乐世界的象征,无论把它放在哪一块现实的土地上,都会显得牵强,甚至会玷污了它本身的圣洁。曾经有位名叫吉米·哈特的美国人,则意外得到了另一条到达香格里拉的“路线图”——他在尼泊尔境内寻找香格里拉时,当地一位老喇嘛笑着说:到处找什么呢?香格里拉就在你的心中啊。
        
        可是我们眼里除了实实在在的物质,什么也没有。就像我在木道那寨口仰头张望的时候,看到的只是枯瘦的枝干和稀疏的叶片,以及树冠上岌岌可危的鸟巢。
        
        如今已经没有人会相信山神,更不相信山神会把灵魂寄托在某棵老朽的杨树上,但我知道,那是一种心灵的真实。也许那些鸟儿轻盈透明的翅膀,已经不能承载物质世界之重,它就像藏族民间故事中那个冰做的宝贝,突然受到阳光的惊扰,撒一泡尿就急急逃走了。我们也无法用文字的罗网捕获它,当我们试图张开罗网的时候,它已经了无踪迹。它伴随了人类的童年,一直到现在,如果不是我们遗忘了它,甚至拒绝了它,它一定还会陪伴着我们,直到世界的末日。
        
        我相信没有汽车辙印的地方会有精灵游荡,虽然说过这话的邻居老人早已故去。而我将继续穿行于青藏高原边缘的村寨牧场,在民间的天空下追寻那些虚无之鸟的踪迹。


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      (cnkmbamv@cpmznkby.com):
      I  see,  I  spuopse  that  would  have  to  be  the  case.
      2013/1/11 15:19:00

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